There's a certain thrill to walking in royal territory — Lochnagar lies within the Balmoral Estate, and every gate feels like it might creak open to reveal a Range Rover and a disapproving corgi.

The walk begins from the Spittal of Glenmuick, a name that sounds like a curse but is actually just a car park. The early section is easy enough, weaving through birch and pine, a good chance to warm up the legs and consider whether the clouds ahead are bluffing.

They weren't.

The ascent toward the Lochnagar corrie was steep, wet, and full of regret. But once you hit the plateau, it opens up dramatically. Lochnagar's summit ridge looks like someone took a bite out of the earth — jagged cliffs sweeping down into a deep corrie still holding patches of snow. It's beautiful. Wild. And absolutely crawling with midges.

I didn't linger. A quick sandwich, a photo of my boot near the summit cairn (proof of life), and I began the loop around and back. The rain chased me the whole way, only really soaking through once I was safely within sight of the car park — classic.

Later, in Ballater, I sat outside a café, steaming gently under an awning and watching well-dressed tourists take photos of a statue of Queen Victoria like she might blink.

Trail Notes

• Start point: Spittal of Glenmuick
• Route: Circular via the corrie and plateau
• Time: 6–7 hours
• Wildlife: Red deer, golden eagles, and one very judgmental pheasant